Exploring the Coast: El Paredón

I’ve started looking for a more permanent place to stay so I can bring my kids to visit, and it’s important for me to be able to run and swim every morning. Naturally, the coast is calling my name—I love the ocean and beaches, so it makes sense. I decided to begin with the nearest spot, El Paredón, which people here in Antigua rave about, especially for surfing. Learning to surf has been on my list, so I figured it was a perfect match.

The journey started with a chicken bus from Antigua to Escuintla, which set me back $20. From Escuintla, I caught a van to Puerto San José for another $20, and the final leg was a bumpy tuc tuc ride—a motorcycle rickshaw that felt more like an amusement park ride than a taxi—that cost $150. The ride was crazy, and I’ve got some videos to upload that capture just how wild it was.  Luckily after speaking with some locals I found a bus that went directly to Antigua with AC for $110.

Once I arrived, I stayed with a local woman whose beach house I’d heard about through a guy in Antigua. He mentioned his aunt had a guest suite and would cook meals for me—sounded perfect, right? But when I got there, reality was a little different. The place was more of a shack, no air conditioning, and water was kept in a basin where you had to scoop it out with a bowl. The toilet didn’t flush on its own, so you had to use a bucket to get water from the basin. The shower barely worked, and everything was built for someone about five feet tall, so I was constantly hunched over. The bed was hard, and I could feel every spring.

It was scorching hot, but thankfully there was a fan in the room. Otherwise, sleep would’ve been impossible. When I offered to give her money for food, she suggested I explore the local restaurants instead, so no homemade meals either.  The mosquitos are ruthless man eaters that itch for days.

After settling in, I couldn’t wait to hit the ocean. I changed into my bathing suit and headed out—it was just three blocks away. I ran in, tried to dive under the first wave, and immediately got slammed into the ground. The water was so turbulent that swimming was impossible. It turns out, if you want to get past the break, you need a surfboard.

Despite the rough conditions and some disappointments, the trip was still valuable. I met some fascinating people and made important contacts on the coast, which will be key for future projects. El Paredón was definitely worth the visit, but I’ll need to keep searching for a more suitable spot.